November 2009

  • Wine Haiku

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    ruby tone beauty

    flavors of a distant land

    every glass delights

  • Gallo Hearty Burgundy

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    When I was a kid in the seventies and early 1980s my parents drank "jug wine" in gallon sized green glass bottles; they might have as much as two glasses a night, usually with dinner, but sometimes, one before dinner as well. They alternated between red and white; I remember the white was often Gallo Rheingarten, and the red was sometimes Gallo Hearty Burgundy. I got all nostalgic the other day when I noticed that Gallo was not only making consumer table wine varietals, but they'd brought back Gallo Hearty Burgundy.

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  • Burgundy

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    I've been deliberately trying varietal table wines from the larger and more widely distributed California wineries. I've noticed the label "Burgundy" on a number of California wines, which is a bit disconcerting if you think about it. You would think that Burgundy on a label means "This wine was made from grapes grown in the Burgundy (Bourgogne) region of France." Well, yes, sometimes, it does mean that. French Red Burgundy is made from French Pinot Noir grapes; white Burgundy is made from French Chardonnay grapes. There's a complicated hierarchy of French Burgundy wines. The hierarchy begins with grand cru, the best wine from the best sites, then premier cru, which are still quality wines, but not at the high level of the grand cru, and then village, which are wines associated with a village in Burgundy where the grapes are grown.

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  • Sutter Home Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

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    I'm slowly working my way through all twelve of the Sutter Home table wine varietals. This time, it's the Sutter Home Cabernet Sauvignon 2007. The wine is a deep red, with ruby highlights, and a definite fruity Cabernet Sauvignon aroma, that's a bit of a cross between plum and cherry. It's middle-of-the-road Cabernet Sauvignon, lighter and more fruity than my favorite California table wine Cabernet Sauvignon, from Meridian. This Sutter Home Cabernet Sauvignon is rounder, with less of a edge from the tannin. The Sutter Home Cabernet Sauvignon is a balanced Cabernet Sauvignon, with hints of cherry and plum, and a slight hint of toasted oak, but it's less oaky than Meridian, and not quite as dry.

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  • Woodbridge Pinot Noir 2005 By Robert Mondavi

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    This is 100% French Pinot Noirwoodbridge pinot noirwoodbridge pinot noir sourced from vineyards near Limoux in the Languedoc region of southern France—not a region known for Pinot Noir, historically. After harvest, the grapes were crushed and fermented in stainless steel tanks, with malolactic fermentation. The young wine was shipped for "development," as the Web site puts it, to the Woodbridge Winery in California for aging in American and French oak.

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  • Columbia Crest Grand Estates Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2007

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    At first sip, this very pale citrine-colored Sauvignon Blanc actually reminded me of Chardonnay. I know, I know, but it's important to be truthful, yes? And I admit, freely, I don't know what I'm talking about. But once the wine warmed a little—I do think, honestly it was really several degrees colder than it should have been—it opened up, and was much more complex and yes, much more like Sauvignon Blanc. It shifted from acidic to slightly sweet peach and mango flavors, with the faint herbal-grassy hint I like so much with Sauvignon Blanc. The aroma too was decidedly fruity; peach and ripe pear.

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  • Apex Chardonnay 2007

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    Apex Cellars in Yakima, Washington, is another of the Precept brands; you can find the marketing materials at Precept's site. Apex was created in 1988 by Harry Alhadeff, a much respected Northwest wine authority and disctibutor, and Brian Carter, a much respected winemaker. Apex produces three basic tiers of wine; Apex, Apex II, and Bridgman. Carter was joined as winemaker by Victor Palenci in 2007.

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  • Sutter Home Zinfandel

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    I confess, I didn't have very high expectations for this wine. California and Sutter Home specifically, were once known for their old vine Zinfandel. The grapes for Sutter Home's Zinfandel are from the Sierra Foothill and Lodi regions, both long-term growing areas for Zinfandel. But I thought, given that Sutter Home very much markets this and their other wines as consumer table wines, that this would likely be sort of fruity, and over-ripe, and too sweet, rather than the lively peppery tones I'd expect from a Zinfandel.

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  • Bridgeview Oregon Riesling 2007

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    Bridgeview has been producing wines in Oregon's Illinois Valley since 1986. They began small with two acres of wine grapes in production for their own consumption, but soon realized that they were creating something special. Since they began producing wine commercially, this small family winery has grown quietly and steadily. They produce their wines and manage their vines using German vineyard traditions, drawing on their German heritage.

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  • Blackstone Chardonnay Monterey County, California 2008

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    I like that the Blackstone Winery Web site is unabashedly about quality, enjoyable consumer table wine from California. I hate that the Web site is Flash-based; this means it's impossible for people using adaptive technology to use the site because they can't see to use the site—and it means that much of the site isn't accessible via a link.

    I like, very much, the general attitude of Blackstone winery, based on the language they use on their Web site:

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  • Sutter Home Pinot Grigio

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    I suppose there are some who would argue that by trying Sutter Home as my first Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris to the French), I'm starting at the bottom, but my feeling is that I'm buying a varietal table wine that is expressive of the varietal, but affordable enough to drink with a typical family dinner.

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  • About Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris

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    The Italian Pinot Grigio is essentially the same grape as the French Pinot Gris; in both cases, the grape is named for its pine-cone like clusters of grapes, and the "grey" color that in actuallity is more blue than grey. The wine actually occurs in a range of colors from a deep gold, to a pinkish copper, and even a pale straw shade of yellow. Pinot Grigio is an old grape, going back to the Middle Ages in France and Italy, and likely, one with Roman heritage. It left a definite foot print in Burgundy, and was deliberately planted in Hungary by a number of estates.

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  • Struktur 2004 Riesling

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    Struktur is another Precept Brands wine label, though this one is in Germany's Mosel-Saar-Ruwer area, the heart of Germany's Rieslings. The grapes are sourced from vineyards growing at fairly high altitudes along the Mosel River, a winding, twisting river that curves through German's Mosel valley and creates the soil, and the micro climates, and is responsible for the complexes of terraced vineyards along the steep hills that have made this the mother land of Riesling.

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