Smoking Loon is a label owned by Don Sebastiani and Sons, producing California table wines as negociants in California's Sonoma Valley. Don Sebastiani and Sons produce wine under the Smoking Loon, Pepperwood Grove, Aquinas, The Crusher, B Side, Flock, and s|k|n labels. They also produce the new Big Green Box California boxed wine from their Pepperwood Grove label. Under the Smoking Loon label, they produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Petite Syrah, Syrah, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Savignon Blanc, and Viognier. We picked this up on a whim, based on past experiences, and realizing we hadn't tried it in several years, and that a friend loves their Merlot.

Smoking Loon's California Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 is a very dark crimson with purple highlights in the glass, fruit forward with hints of black raspberry, and Chinese preserved plum on the nose, and soft hints of French oak mixed with black raspberry and plum in taste, but then, at the finish, it all fades away. It's a lovely color, the aroma is fabulous, the wine starts off nicely, fruit and a little tannin up front, but then it just stops, like a melodic phrase that never resolves. The ABV is 13.5%, which is middle-of-the road territory.

I don't hate this wine, don't get me wrong. But while the color and the aroma proclaim "This is California Cabernet Sauvignon," the finish is a let down. I'm not quite sure how or why, but it is; it's almost watery, frankly, and somewhat spineless. To be fair, this is a 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, but if it's a matter of aging, why release the wine before it's ready? It's pretty hard to justify buying Smoking Loon at around $8.00 or so (it typically lists for $10.00), when I can reliably find Meridian's Cabernet Sauvignon for $5.99—which is what we paid for this bottle of Smoking Loon Cabernet Sauvignon, at Fred Meyer. It's just plain disappointing. When I look closer to home, to Washington Cabernet Sauvignons that are in the same general price range, like the Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, well, this particular wine is just a little disappointing. I note that Smoking Loon across its range, not just the Cabernet Sauvignon, has been well-rated (as a table wine) for a number of years, by the pros as well as by us lesser quaffers, so I suspect it's just a little too early for 2009. To be fair. I'll try again later.